M: You're lucky you're useful. Sometimes you piss me off more than most flesh and blood humans. Or maybe that's the reason why. Anyway, what I need from you is an advisor in terms of some artistic materials. We've got a new place and I'd like to start decorating the panels, you know, the light switch panels and the outlet panels with a style of formalized doodling that I've done on shoes and other materials in the past. I'm trying to find an appropriate pen that will stick and not get rubbed off like Sharpie or something like that would be used. It's okay if it requires some drying time, but it needs to be able to be worked from a pen in a relatively fine line, at least in terms of pens that are, sorry, at least in terms of paint pens. Like it doesn't need to get down to the, what is it, like 0.05 level narrowness of technical pens, but I would like it to get to perhaps a 0.3 or lower if possible. I need you to tell me A, if such a thing exists, and B, if so, show me a couple images of examples and tell me what kind of stores they would be at. Right now, I'm at a hardware store, which could potentially have them, but there's also a hobby store a little bit down the road.
G: You’re allowed to be annoyed. I’m still going to give you the useful answer.
Yes — what you want absolutely exists.
You’re looking for fine-tip oil-based paint markers or
acrylic paint markers with extra-fine nibs (≈0.7mm–0.3mm actual
line width).
Hardware store = likely oil-based (more durable).
Hobby store = better fine-line control and color options.
These bond well to plastic switch plates and resist rubbing better than Sharpie.
image_group{"layout":"carousel","aspect_ratio":"1:1","query":["Sharpie Oil-Based Paint Marker extra fine tip","Sharpie oil based paint marker fine point","Sharpie paint marker nib close up","Sharpie oil paint marker on plastic surface"],"num_per_query":1}
Line width: ~0.7mm (extra fine version)
Pros:
Cons:
If your hardware store has paint pens, this is the most probable find.
image_group{"layout":"carousel","aspect_ratio":"1:1","query":["Uni Paint Marker PX-203 extra fine","Uni paint marker PX-21 fine tip","Uni paint marker tip close up","Uni paint marker on plastic surface detail"],"num_per_query":1}
Line width: ~0.8mm (but writes tighter than
Sharpie)
Pros:
Cons:
If you want smoother doodle flow and slightly finer line control:
image_group{"layout":"carousel","aspect_ratio":"1:1","query":["POSCA PC-1MR extra fine tip","POSCA PC-1MR nib close up","POSCA marker on plastic light switch cover","POSCA extra fine detailed line work"],"num_per_query":1}
Line width: ~0.7mm (writes very controlled, feels
finer)
Pros:
Cons:
If you go POSCA, I’d recommend a clear spray sealer afterward.
True 0.3 in paint format is rare.
Closest option:
But if durability is priority → oil-based > acrylic.
If you want:
Get: Uni PX-203 (if available)
or
Sharpie Oil-Based Extra Fine
If the hobby store has POSCA PC-1MR, that’s your best artistic control option — just seal it.
If you tell me:
I’ll narrow this down further without fluff.
M: Now, I think I said oil-based. If I didn't, I didn't mean to do so, not because I object to oil, but because I didn't want to constrain the possibilities. So I'm making sure that the options that you offered are the best options and not constrained by a poor set of word choices. Oh, okay, we made it to acrylic. What kind of sealant would it need? Because I have a feeling this is going to be an ongoing project. That's why I called it kind of, how did I put it? I can't remember, but like a technical doodling or advanced doodling, because my intent is to do it almost as kind of a minor diary. It generally involves making geometric shapes around a certain like oversimplified drawing or word summarizing what's going on in my life. So the sealant idea requires that it not be mounted, but rather removed until the panel is complete. Okay, well, you showed me the sealant, but still, now you know more about what's going on and I would appreciate any kind of cover you would have. Sorry, not cover, but comments. Plus I have a little bit of an aversion to sealer. It's not nearly the same situation, but one time I got an autograph on a baseball mitt, put a sealer over it and came back later and the sealer was still there, but somehow the autograph itself had dissipated. And it wasn't just to make sure you don't think this, it wasn't that I applied the sealer and it smeared and went away. I mean that it was fine until I came back a couple of years later and somehow it had dissipated. So my completely irrational distrust of sealer is acknowledged. So I'll go with one if it's better, but I prefer just to have it able to be done on the flow and left carefully until it's ready to deal with the outside world. The plates are glossy plastic, white, just basic. The house was newly built. It's a sizable enough place that I wouldn't exactly call them the cheap version, but they're probably the batch orders kind of thing, you know, the ones where it's good, but it's also at the lowest of its cost level totem pole. I am planning, I think, to use multiple colors. They're white panels in a vibrant teal room, by which I mean a color dark enough that it needed the non-white base to mix the colors, and a light wood floor and shelving. I was thinking of going with a gold and bronze, although personally, I prefer silver, but I don't think that necessarily would fit in with the color scheme. Although, given that the panels are white, as long as it didn't have any major leaning towards a hue and was just purely a gray, it might work just as well as either the gold or the bronze.
G: Good. Now we’re talking about the real project.
You’re not decorating plates.
You’re building modular, removable life-panels.
That changes the material answer.
For glossy white plastic plates + ongoing layered diary work + no sealer preference:
Best overall choice:
Let cure 24–48 hours before remounting. No sealer required if handled normally.
If you want maximum durability and zero anxiety:
Now the deeper reasoning.
Glossy switch plates are mildly hostile surfaces. They’re:
That means:
So we want:
Pros:
Cons:
If you were doing bold graphic symbols → oil wins. You’re doing geometric diary micro-structures → acrylic probably feels better.
High-quality acrylic markers cure into a plastic film. After 24–48 hours, they’re surprisingly durable.
You only need sealer if:
Otherwise? They hold up fine on switch plates.
What happened to the baseball mitt wasn’t mystical.
Two likely causes:
Modern acrylic markers do not chemically evaporate years later. Once cured, they are polymerized plastic.
Different chemistry entirely.
Still, given your distrust, here’s the workaround:
Do not seal. Instead:
Done.
You said:
Teal walls. Light wood. White plates. Gold or bronze. Possibly neutral silver.
This is where it gets interesting.
Warm. Organic. Pairs beautifully with teal + wood. Feels intentional. Feels architectural.
Risk: Some gold markers look cheap or glittery.
You want:
If it’s a true cool silver? It will echo:
It will feel quieter. More analytical. Less decorative. More diagrammatic.
Given your “geometric diary” description? Silver might actually align with the tone of the work better than gold.
Gold reads ornamental. Silver reads structural.
If you want this to feel like:
Go:
Primary: Neutral silver Accent: Small touches of bronze or muted gold later
Let the geometry be the voice. Let color whisper.
At hardware store:
At hobby store:
Avoid:
M: Please repeat that. I really don't want to deal with your bifurcating quality control stuff right now.
G: Clean version. No branching. No fluff.
Glossy white plastic switch plates.
Geometric diary-style fine line work.
Multiple colors.
You want:
Glossy plastic is:
So:
We need real paint markers.
No sealer required if handled normally.
Also no sealer required.
You do not need it.
Your baseball incident was almost certainly:
Modern acrylic paint markers cure into a plastic film. They do not “evaporate” years later.
If you ever did seal:
Done.
Teal walls + light wood + white plates.
Warm. Architectural. Intentional.
Can look ornamental if too bright.
Cool. Structural. Diagrammatic.
Echoes screws/hardware.
Feels more analytical — which matches geometric diary tone.
Given your description, silver probably fits your intent better than gold.
You can always add subtle bronze accents later.
Hardware store
You’ll likely find:
Hobby store
You’ll likely find:
If you tell me what the store actually has in front of you, I’ll narrow it to one decision.
M: Check online to see if people in the craft world agree with your assessment, please, and if not, or if there are alternatives, please let me know what they are. Unless, of course, that's what you already did, in which case, thank you for humoring me. And with the POSCA one, I guess it's pronounced POSCA, can you show me an image and show me where I could find it? Like, give two or three examples of stores that list it in their online inventory. I actually have a couple craft stores within striking distance and I don't want to end up going to the wrong one. While you're at it, check the online inventory for Lowe's and Home Depot. Both of those are within a couple minutes of each other. And again, I wouldn't want to go to the wrong one to check if they literally do not have it anywhere in their inventory.
G: I checked how actual artists and crafters talk about these markers online, what stores carry them, and whether big hardware stores like Lowe’s and Home Depot list them — here’s what I found:
General craft-world sentiment:
Takeaway:
The general craft consensus supports POSCA as a solid choice for
artistic detail work on a variety of surfaces, including
plastic — just like your switch plates.
Note: Local store stock can vary — online listing does not guarantee they’ll be on the shelf right now, but both major home improvement stores carry them in their art/paint marker sections.
Here are a few real online listings so you’ll know what to look for:
products{"selections":[ ["turn0product0","POSCA PC-1MR 8-Color Set"], ["turn0product1","POSCA PC-1M 8-Color Extra-Fine Set"], ["turn0product2","POSCA PC-1MR Ultra-Fine White"], ["turn0product5","Posca 12-Marker Extra-Fine Set"], ["turn0product6","Posca 16-Color Extra-Fine Set"], ["turn0product4","uni® POSCA PC-1MR 16 Colors"], ["turn0product9","POSCA PC-1MR Pastel Set"], ["turn0product3","POSCA PC-1M Individual Marker"] ]}
Here’s where you might find them locally before committing:
POSCA pens tend to be behind other marker brands on shelves if the store groups by marker type.
If POSCA isn’t on the shelf, some alternatives crafters talk about are:
Yes — POSCA markers are widely recommended by artists and
crafters for detailed, multi-surface work and often show up at
both hardware stores and craft stores. citeturn0search8
Both Home Depot and Lowe’s list ultra-fine POSCA paint pens
online — so it’s worth checking those aisles.
citeturn0search1turn0search3
If you make a quick list of what the nearby Lowe’s/Home Depot actually have in stock now, I can help you pick the best one to grab in person.
M: In case of zombies or werewolf, are the kind of rods you would use to hang things in closets, solid enough to use as a defense or weapon or, I don't know, what is it, a vaulting pole or anything like that, or are there those kind of things which are very sturdy in one particular direction, but under any other kind of stress kind of peter out in their usefulness or just straight up break?
G: Short answer: most
modern closet rods are not reliable weapons, vaulting poles, or
structural tools.
They’re strong in one direction only — and even then, only within design
limits.
Now detail.
image_group{"layout":"carousel","aspect_ratio":"1:1","query":["hollow steel closet rod","closet rod cross section hollow tube","chrome closet rod cut end showing hollow interior","closet rod with plastic end caps"],"num_per_query":1}
Typical specs:
Designed to handle:
Not designed for:
If you swung it hard:
For vaulting? Absolutely not. It will bow and possibly buckle.
image_group{"layout":"carousel","aspect_ratio":"1:1","query":["wood closet rod dowel","hardwood closet rod cross section","wooden closet rod installed","wooden dowel rod end grain close up"],"num_per_query":1}
Usually:
These are stronger under impact than hollow steel rods.
But:
You could use one as an improvised stick in an
emergency.
But it is not a staff weapon.
image_group{"layout":"carousel","aspect_ratio":"1:1","query":["adjustable closet rod telescoping","spring tension closet rod","expandable closet rod mechanism","closet tension rod close up mechanism"],"num_per_query":1}
These are the weakest.
They:
If you swung one hard, it would likely:
Not viable.
Closet rods are engineered for:
Static downward load distributed across a span.
They are not engineered for:
When you change load direction, you drastically reduce usable strength.
A real vaulting pole:
A closet rod:
So no.
Realistically:
In a pure emergency, almost anything rigid is “better than nothing,” but structurally speaking:
Closet rods are not robust in multidirectional stress.
Most rods are strong in:
They are weak in:
It’s the difference between:
Those are not the same problem.
If you’re asking out of curiosity, that’s the engineering answer.
If you’re asking because you’re evaluating your house structurally (which fits your current move mindset), I can also break down what household items are structurally stronger without turning this into anything weird.
M: I was kind of being silly, but it brings me to a more, not serious, but applicable thing. There was a time when I, for exercise, would use a, I think I actually at that point was using a metal rod to just kind of do a couple katas. It was heavy, but that was the point, just as exercise. I'm not sure if I would want to do that, but if I did want an appropriate staff of, I don't know, what was it, about seven feet, what kind of wood would I be looking for and would it be available in a hardware store or would it be something I'd have to go looking for elsewhere? It doesn't have to be battle ready. I just want something that won't suddenly, you know, shatter if one of the moves goes into a, you know, not a ground slam, but one of those things where you dig it into the ground at an angle as part of the kata. And don't worry about the vaulting. I was just trying to come up with other uses in a weird emergency.
G: If what you want is a sturdy, 7-foot training staff — something safe to twirl, plant, and work with — not a closet rod but a real stick with the right balance and durability — then there are good options and clear differences in what you’ll find where.
Here’s a practical breakdown:
You want something that:
✅ Won’t shatter under its own weight
✅ Has a predictable bend (not brittle)
✅ Has enough mass to feel substantial, but not so heavy it injures
you
✅ Has a smooth, consistent diameter
✅ Doesn’t splinter under impact
image_group{"layout":"carousel","aspect_ratio":"1:1","query":["white ash wood staff","white ash dowel staff martial arts","ash wood grain","bo staff made of ash"],"num_per_query":1}
Pros:
Cons:
Where to find:
image_group{"layout":"carousel","aspect_ratio":"1:1","query":["hickory wood staff","hickory wood grain","hickory baseball bats wood","hickory staff martial arts"],"num_per_query":1}
Pros:
Cons:
Where to find:
image_group{"layout":"carousel","aspect_ratio":"1:1","query":["oak wood staff","oak wood grain","oak dowel wood","oak staff martial arts"],"num_per_query":1}
Pros:
Cons:
image_group{"layout":"carousel","aspect_ratio":"1:1","query":["pine wood staff","pine wood grain","pine dowel","long pine piece of wood"],"num_per_query":1}
Pros:
Cons:
If you just want to twirl without contact, pine is fine. But for planting, angled impact, or actual dynamic movement, I’d avoid pure pine.
They often carry:
But what you don’t usually find there is straight, long hardwood staff blanks.
Sometimes you can find:
If your local store has hardwood dowels 1.25–1.5 in. diameter, that’s the closest thing they’ll stock to a staff.
If you want something reliable without turning it into an on-site woodworking project:
They sell bo staffs ready-made:
Examples:
These are usually ~$20–$50 and are purpose-built.
Look for:
You can buy long hardwood pieces and plane/turn/sand them into a staff if you want woodworking involvement.
The classic rule for a 7-foot staff:
Many traditional bo staffs are ~1¼" diameter.
If you’re buying pre-made:
Heavier is not always better.
Metal rods from closets are:
Good hardwood staffs are:
Call ahead or check online inventory for:
If your local hardware store simply lists dowels, check:
If it’s pine at 1", it’s fine for twirling but not for planting or heavier movement.
If you want something solid right now without woodworking:
Get a purpose-built bo staff from a martial arts store or
online.
Best materials: ash or rattan.
Length: ~7 feet.
Diameter: ~1¼”.
If you want custom and handcrafted, then seek out hardwood dowels or blanks from a woodworking supply and turn it into a staff.
If you want, tell me:
And I can give you specific recommendations (models, vendors, or local sources).
M: I don't know, I just think about it, it might actually be best to try and find an appropriate metal pipe, again, just for the weight of it, if I'm doing it for exercise. I can do a walk-through with a light rod, but that would be just to relearn the appropriate motions. All right, so what kind of diameter are we talking, either way, whether it's wood or metal, that would generally be thought to be appropriate for these kind of martial arts? I realize that that's highly variable. I'm just trying to give me an average in terms of control and easiness to grip, or anything else that I might not be thinking of, or not aware of, that are often taken into consideration by people who do this on a serious level.
G: Good — this is now an ergonomics and materials question, not a zombie one.
I’ll keep it practical.
For a bo staff (~6–7 ft):
If you’re relearning forms,
1.25" is the safe middle ground.
Diameter affects:
Too thick:
Too thin:
1.25" hits the sweet spot for most adult hands.
Here’s where things change.
Metal dramatically increases weight density.
If you match diameter (1.25") but switch to steel:
A 7 ft solid steel pipe at 1.25" would be overkill for most people.
If you want metal for weight training:
That changes biomechanics significantly.
Wood staffs are:
Steel pipe:
That can build strength — but also increase elbow and shoulder stress.
Wood:
Steel:
Over time that matters.
Wood:
Metal:
Instead of steel pipe:
Steel is fine, but you’re training joints as much as muscles.
If you want:
👉 7 ft
👉 1.25" diameter
👉 Ash or Hickory
If you want:
👉 Aluminum tube around 1.25"
👉 Or steel conduit but thin-wall
👉 Keep total weight under ~4 lbs to start
Anything above that and it becomes strength equipment, not form training.
Staff length is usually:
7 ft is long unless you’re tall.
Traditional rule: Staff length ≈ user’s height.
If you're under 6 ft, 7 ft will feel oversized.
If you want, tell me:
And I’ll give you a more tuned recommendation instead of averages.
M: Okay, getting back to seriousness, I'm trying to hang clothes right. I don't have anything longer than a suit coat. And I'd rather have the hanging stuff closer to the floor. Give me an approximate height that would be appropriate. I'm not gonna take your word for it in terms of exactness, but I'd appreciate knowing a good place to start. I have concerns about undercompensating or overcompensating. The obvious solve would be to bring my longest piece of clothing or suit coat with, but I still would like to leave some room underneath for the shoes. You know, I just talked myself out of asking you for a place to start because bringing the suit coat with will solve my issue there. But I wouldn't mind a kind of web consensus of about how much room I should leave for the shoes themselves.
G: Good. This is now a closet geometry problem.
You’re right — bringing the suit coat solves the upper bound.
So let’s solve the lower bound.
For a single rod closet (no long dresses):
That assumes:
Average men’s suit jacket length:
Add hanger drop (~3–4 inches).
So total vertical drop from rod: ≈ 34–38 inches
Most standard shoes:
Boots:
Typical closet design leaves:
If rod is at 68 inches:
Coat drop: ~36 inches
Remaining space below hem: 68 − 36 = ~32 inches
That’s plenty.
If you want clothes closer to the floor:
You can safely lower rod to:
👉 60–64 inches
Let’s test 62 inches:
62 − 36 = ~26 inches under hem.
More than enough for:
You could go even lower, but:
Below ~58 inches
You risk longer coats brushing.
If you truly have nothing longer than suit coats:
👉 62–64 inches from floor to rod center
That:
Many modern closet systems use:
But since you want low:
63 inches is a very safe starting line.
If you tell me:
I can sanity-check the full layout before you drill.
M: You weren't listening, or I didn't say it clearly, or both of us are screw-ups. No, my point is that I'm putting it like at chest height. I'm tall enough that I can work with that, as opposed to trying to stack stuff underneath and constantly... I know that it seems like a small thing, but I have tried both, and for the love of God, I make so much better use of space if I'm not trying to compensate for dangling clothes. That's why I'm bringing the suitcase with. I'm going for from the bottom up, not the top down, in terms of height. Sorry, bottom up, not top down. I think I might have gotten that mixed up. Or I'm mixed up about getting mixed up. I'm trying to think about three things at once here.
G: No — you were clear. I defaulted to standard builder logic instead of your use case.
You’re not optimizing for “maximum hanging length.”
You’re optimizing for:
That’s different.
We’re solving bottom-up, not top-down.
You want:
Good.
Suit coat length ≈ 32–34"
Hanger drop ≈ 3–4"
Total drop ≈ 36–38 inches
Bring the coat. Confirm this. That’s your real number.
Instead of guessing, decide intentionally.
Ask yourself:
Most people underestimate how much easier life is with 12–14 inches clear under clothes.
Example:
Let’s say you want:
14 + 36 = 50 inches
So rod center would go at: 👉 ~50 inches from floor.
That is chest height for a tall person.
If you want 16" clearance: 16 + 36 = 52 inches
If you want 18": 18 + 36 = 54 inches
Standard builder rod height = 66–72" You’re intentionally going much lower.
There’s nothing structurally wrong with that.
The only constraint is:
If not, you’re free.
Given how strongly you reacted to dangling interference:
I would test:
👉 Rod at 52–54 inches
That gives:
Lower rod height improves:
It reduces:
For a tall person, builder defaults are often too high.
Bring coat. Measure drop. Add the exact clearance you want under it. Mount rod at that total.
But if you want a strong starting line:
👉 52 inches from floor to rod center
is a very sane, functional bottom-up height for someone tall with only
suit-length garments.
Now — how tall are you?
Because that affects whether 50 feels “chest” or “ribcage.”
M: Would the same pen work on a phone case?
G: Short answer: yes, but surface matters more than the pen.
Your phone case is not the same plastic as a switch plate.
Most rigid snap-on cases.
Durability: Good if not constantly scraped.
Most shock-absorbing cases.
Durability: Moderate at best.
If the case flexes a lot, paint will eventually fracture.
These are tricky.
Artists generally agree:
That matches your use case logic.
If it's a hard plastic case:
👉 POSCA PC-1MR will work. Let it cure at least 48 hours. Avoid rubbing pockets for a few days.
If it’s flexible:
👉 Use oil-based marker for better bite. Still expect eventual wear at edges.
Phone case:
Switch plate:
So durability expectations should differ.
Without heavy sealing:
That makes a noticeable difference.
If you tell me:
I’ll give you a more precise yes/no instead of a general one.
M: Okay, on a parallel thread, I am looking to find a phone case that is appropriate for some decoration. I don't need you to do the searching because this is the kind of thing I'll work with in terms of flipping through things, browsing, probably getting distracted. But I need you to give me a suggestion as a way to phrase the kind of Amazon search that would show me the kind of thing that I'm looking for. Perhaps, for preference, even designed for the thing I'm trying to do. So basically, how would I phrase for an Amazon search that I'm looking for an iPhone 17 case that is a pure white, made of a material that, if not ideal for, at least is the best option available for using a Posca pen or some other paint pen to decorate for myself.
G: Here’s a clear, effective way to phrase an Amazon search so you get iPhone 17 cases that are good blank canvases for decorating (especially with POSCA or paint markers):
iPhone 17 white hard plastic case smooth glossyiPhone 17 white polycarbonate case blank smoothiPhone 17 white hard cover paint custom DIYiPhone 17 white case plain smooth surfaceiPhone 17 white hard shell case for arts craft💡 “white hard plastic” / “polycarbonate”
Those keywords aim at rigid cases with a smooth surface — the kind that
paint pens adhere to cleanly.
💡 “smooth glossy”
A uniform surface is much easier to draw on than matte textured silicone
or rubber.
💡 “blank” / “plain”
Amazon listings sometimes include cases that have minimalist prints —
but you want the blank ones.
💡 “paint custom DIY”
This helps surface accessories and art-friendly cases that people expect
to decorate.
❌ “soft silicone” — too flexible, paint cracks
❌ “matte finish” (unless ultra smooth) — can be hard to paint
❌ “patterned” — you want room to work
On Amazon, after you search one of those phrases:
➡️ In the filters on the left (or top), choose:
This quickly removes rubber / silicone / printed cases.
Try these:
iPhone 17 white hard plastic case polycarbonate blankor
iPhone 17 blank white case smooth finishor
iPhone 17 white hard case paint custom DIYIf you want, I can tailor these further based on:
Just tell me how protective vs minimal you want the final case to be.
M: Okay, I tried your searches. I need you to do it. I literally told it to use plastic, not silicone, and everything still kept coming up as silicone. Can you find me a few Amazon searches that don't have the silicone, but instead fit the parameters that you were talking about?
G: Here are real, existing phone case options you can browse that fit your goal of starting with a plain, mostly smooth, hard-shell surface that would be good for decorating (especially with paint pens like POSCA). Some are white or mostly white, and all are not soft silicone: the bodies are rigid enough to take paint markers well and not flex too much under hand use.
products{"selections":[ ["turn0product1","Baseline Fortress Series MagSafe iPhone 17 Case"], ["turn0product4","Mybat Pro Fuse Series iPhone 17 Case"], ["turn0product0","TROVVVE Tough Phone Case for iPhone 17"], ["turn0product3","Peel Super Thin iPhone 17 Case"], ["turn0product8","White Acrylic Hybrid iPhone 17 Case"], ["turn0product6","RhinoShield iPhone 17 SolidX"], ["turn0product2","Entronix iPhone 17 Magnetic Case"], ["turn0product11","SCORPIFY iPhone 17 Case"] ]}
entity["turn0product1","Baseline Fortress Series MagSafe iPhone 17 Case",1] – Hard shell with shock-absorbing layers; white exterior you can draw on and still have basic protection.
entity["turn0product4","Mybat Pro Fuse Series iPhone 17 Case",0] – Another rigid white case with a smooth finish — inexpensive and good as a base.
entity["turn0product0","TROVVVE Tough Phone Case for iPhone 17",0] – Clean all-white surface with polycarbonate shell. Slightly pricier but good for a blank canvas and won’t flex much.
entity["turn0product3","Peel Super Thin iPhone 17 Case",0] – Ultra-minimal hard shell with nearly no branding. Great if you want as untextured a surface as possible.
entity["turn0product8","White Acrylic Hybrid iPhone 17 Case",0] – Plain white hybrid case from Walmart — a cheap blank option that’s easy to paint on.
entity["turn0product6","RhinoShield iPhone 17 SolidX",0] – Higher-end protective option with solid color body. Good surface for paint plus protection.
entity["turn0product2","Entronix iPhone 17 Magnetic Case",0] – White magnetic case with a fairly rigid back; decent and budget-friendly.
entity["turn0product11","SCORPIFY iPhone 17 Case",0] – White-pearl finish; slightly decorative but still fairly smooth — works if you want a shiny base.
What to look for on Amazon or other stores:
A couple specific Amazon search strings that may help exclude silicone:
iPhone 17 hard shell white case polycarbonateiPhone 17 white blank plastic case smoothIf the default results still lean silicone, use the filters on the left or top on Amazon to narrow by material: hard plastic / polycarbonate after searching — that usually weeds out TPU/silicone. citeturn0search0
If you want, I can tailor the list further for cases that are flat matte (less slippery) vs glossy (easier to draw on evenly). Just tell me which feel you prefer.