M: I have an avermedia 2 plus streaming device with a headset mini jack, and a microphone with an clear connection. Given that I have a limited budget, what is the minimum I would have to do to connect the microphone into the headset jack

G: To connect your microphone to the headset mini-jack on your AVerMedia 2 Plus device, you need to address the fact that the headset jack typically requires a TRRS connector (tip-ring-ring-sleeve) designed for combined headphone and microphone use. Most standalone microphones use a TRS (tip-ring-sleeve) or XLR connector.

Here’s the minimum you’d need to do:

  1. Check Your Microphone’s Connector Type:

    • If your microphone uses a TRS connector (common for standalone mics), you need a TRS to TRRS adapter.
    • If it uses XLR, you'll need an XLR to TRRS adapter or an additional step-down adapter chain.
  2. Purchase a TRRS Adapter:
    The TRRS adapter is inexpensive and allows your microphone to connect correctly to the headset jack. Options include:

    • TRS to TRRS Adapter (like the Rode SC4 for microphones with TRS outputs).
    • XLR to TRRS Cable (if you have an XLR microphone).
  3. Verify Power Requirements:

    • If your microphone needs phantom power (common with some condenser mics), you’ll need a budget-friendly phantom power supply or a microphone with its own battery power.
  4. Cost Estimate:

    • TRS to TRRS adapter: $8–$15.
    • XLR to TRRS adapter: $15–$30.
    • Phantom power supply (if required): $15–$25.

Steps:

  1. Plug your microphone into the appropriate adapter.
  2. Connect the adapter into the headset mini-jack on the AVerMedia device.
  3. Test the setup and adjust settings in your streaming software as needed.

This approach should keep costs minimal while ensuring compatibility.

M: Can you name a specific phantom power supply that I can look up and get an idea of what you’re talking about

G: A specific and affordable phantom power supply you can consider is the Neewer 1-Channel 48V Phantom Power Supply. It’s a widely used option for providing phantom power to condenser microphones. Here's a quick overview:

You can find it on Amazon, eBay, or other online retailers.

M: I have an xlr microphone that works, a phantom power supply that works, an xlr to trs cable that works, and a trrs headphone/microphone splitter that works. I just tested all of them separately. When I try to use them to hook up to the headset port of an avermedia live gamer portable 2 plus, though, no audio registers. What could the problem be?

G: The issue is likely due to how the AVerMedia Live Gamer Portable 2 Plus handles input through its headset port. The headset port is designed for TRRS (Tip-Ring-Ring-Sleeve) connections that follow the CTIA standard (commonly used in mobile devices). Even if you’re using a TRRS splitter, some configurations can still fail due to signal grounding, device compatibility, or impedance mismatches.

Here’s how you can troubleshoot and resolve the issue:


1. Confirm the CTIA Standard

The headset jack on the AVerMedia likely requires a CTIA TRRS pinout (common in most modern devices). If your TRRS splitter uses the OMTP standard, the microphone signal and ground connections might be swapped.


2. Check Mic Impedance and Power

Some headset jacks expect microphones designed for smartphones or gaming headsets, which use electret condensers that require bias voltage (also called plug-in power, typically 1-3V). Your XLR mic, even with phantom power, doesn’t output this kind of signal.


3. Verify Cable and Adapter Connections

Ensure the signal chain flows correctly without signal loss or mismatches. The sequence should look like this:

  1. XLR MicPhantom Power SupplyXLR to TRS CableTRRS Splitter Mic InputAVerMedia Headset Port.

4. Test with a Known TRRS Microphone

To isolate the issue, test the AVerMedia headset port with a standard TRRS microphone (e.g., a smartphone-compatible lav mic). If this works, the problem lies in how your setup adapts the XLR mic signal to TRRS.


5. Check AVerMedia Audio Settings

The AVerMedia device might need specific settings to recognize the microphone input:


6. Consider an Inline Mic Adapter

If none of the above resolves the issue, using a device like the iRig Pre or Saramonic SmartRig can bridge the gap. These adapters are designed to output a mic signal compatible with TRRS headset jacks.


If you go through these steps and still face issues, let me know where the signal is failing, and we can refine the troubleshooting further.

M: What is a ribbon or dynamic microphone? (I found an inline preamp online)

G: A ribbon microphone and a dynamic microphone are two types of microphones that use different technologies to convert sound into an electrical signal. Here's a breakdown of each:


Ribbon Microphone


Dynamic Microphone


Inline Preamp

An inline preamp is a small device placed between your microphone and your audio interface or mixer to boost the microphone's signal. It’s particularly useful for ribbon and dynamic microphones because these mics often have low output levels.

Examples include the Cloudlifter CL-1, TritonAudio FetHead, or similar devices. These are commonly used with ribbon and dynamic microphones.

If you're using an inline preamp, ensure it’s compatible with your microphone type (e.g., passive vs. active). For example, a passive ribbon mic would benefit greatly from an inline preamp, while a condenser mic wouldn't need it.

M: So would the preamp work with a 512 skylight microphone

G: Yes, an inline preamp can work with the 512 Audio Skylight microphone, but it might not be necessary. Here's why:


About the 512 Audio Skylight Microphone


Inline Preamp Compatibility

Inline preamps like the Cloudlifter CL-1 or TritonAudio FetHead are primarily designed for passive microphones (ribbon or dynamic) that do not require phantom power and have low output. These devices take advantage of phantom power to provide clean gain to the mic signal.

For the 512 Skylight:


When Would You Need a Preamp?


Conclusion

An inline preamp is unnecessary for the 512 Audio Skylight. Instead, ensure your audio interface or mixer provides 48V phantom power and has sufficient gain to amplify the signal. If you’re experiencing low volume or noise issues, the problem is more likely with your interface or cables.

M: Please answer the previous troubleshooting question about the avermedia device, knowing the microphone is a 512 skylight

G: Given that your microphone is the 512 Audio Skylight (a condenser microphone requiring 48V phantom power), the issue likely stems from the AVerMedia headset port not being compatible with the output signal from your setup. Here's a tailored analysis and troubleshooting plan:


Potential Issues

  1. Signal Type Mismatch:

    • The 512 Skylight outputs a balanced line-level signal (via XLR) after phantom power is supplied. The AVerMedia headset port expects an unbalanced microphone-level signal (designed for headsets or electret microphones).
    • This mismatch can cause the AVerMedia device to fail to register the signal.
  2. TRRS Connection Expectation:

    • The headset port on the AVerMedia uses a TRRS (Tip-Ring-Ring-Sleeve) connection and likely follows the CTIA standard. Your XLR-to-TRS cable combined with a TRRS splitter may not be routing the microphone signal correctly to the AVerMedia input.
  3. Impedance or Voltage Issues:

    • The headset port might expect a specific impedance or low voltage signal, while your 512 Skylight delivers a higher output signal from the phantom power and preamp chain.

Solution Steps

1. Use a TRRS-Compatible Audio Interface


2. Test with a Direct TRRS Microphone


3. Adjust the Signal with an Inline Preamp


4. Connect via an External Audio Interface


5. Check AVerMedia Settings


Likely Root Cause

The AVerMedia headset port isn’t designed to handle the line-level signal from your 512 Skylight setup. The solution lies in either:

  1. Using a TRRS-compatible adapter or audio interface to properly route and match the signal.
  2. Testing alternative connection methods like direct line-in, if available.

Let me know if you need help selecting specific hardware for your setup!

M: Is there a way to hook up An irig to dc power

G: Yes, you can hook up an iRig to DC power, but the method depends on which iRig model you have. Here are some options:

For iRig Pre & iRig Pre HD (Battery-Powered Models)

For iRig Pro & iRig HD Series (USB-Powered Models)

For iRig Stream & iRig Pro Duo (Mobile Devices)

If you let me know which iRig model you have, I can suggest a more specific solution.

M: Irig pre 2

G: For the iRig Pre 2, which normally runs on two AA batteries, you can power it via DC using a battery eliminator or a USB-to-DC converter. Here’s how:

Since the iRig Pre 2 uses two AA batteries (3V total), you can replace them with a 3V DC power adapter designed to mimic AA batteries.

Option 2: DIY USB to DC Power

If you’re comfortable modifying cables, you can:

  1. Take a USB 5V to 3V step-down converter.
  2. Solder it to a dummy AA battery holder.
  3. Connect it to the iRig battery compartment.

Option 3: USB Power with Boost Converter

Since the iRig Pre 2 doesn't have a dedicated DC input, a battery eliminator is the best way to keep it powered without constantly replacing AA batteries.